Sealed Engine Installation Manual

LS7 427

355hp - 525hp Instruction Manual

Upon receiving your sealed engine assembly remember to unpack the engine

and inspect for any freight damage before you sign the bill of lading and the

freight driver leaves. Call Schwanke Engines and notify them as well.

CLUTCH AND FLYWHEEL INSTRUCTIONS:

The engine assembly requires a 2000 and newer GM bolt pattern, which usually

takes a different clutch backup plate. Call your clutch manufacture for the

proper clutch size and bolt pattern. Tell them you need an LS1 pattern

for your clutch.

NOTE * sprint car packages are supplied with adaptor, not for use with

flywheels

to adapt to standard sprint car yoke.

WIRING HARNESS CONNECTION INSTRUCTIONS:

IMPORTANT - There is only one battery power required to start up

the engine supply direct battery power to red disconnect ignition

switch on terminal #1 this is a 3/8 stud - recommend 10 gauge or

larger wire. The disconnect switch can also be used as a car

disconnect also.

The sealed engine assembly is an electronic fuel injected engine with wiring

harness and connectors that can easily be damaged and cut, please take care

during installation.

The engine assembly has been dyno tested before it left Schwanke Engines

and the harness is installed along with safety shut downs, disconnect and PCM.

All connections are labeled with white tags with respect to their proper

components. Remember to locate harness and connectors away from headers

and rotating parts.

The harness is 50" long, which allows you to mount the PCM, disconnect and

fuse panel safely away from the heat of the engine.

The engine has 4 simple connections:

NOTE* highly recommend use of manual disconnect switch or Ford starter

relay avoid using toggle switches.

1. Connections to main battery power - there are two 3/8" single terminal

eyelets, one is 18 gauge small red and one is 10 gauge alternator and main

battery power.

2. Fuel pump red power up wire - located next to the fuel pump relay connects

directly to fuel pump positive. The negative terminal on the electric fuel pump

goes to chassis ground.

3. There is a white tach wire in the harness - located by the PCM. This is a

small 16-gauge wire and it provides a tach signal. Remember to check your

tach operators’ manual for proper installation. The white signal wire is a

1-cylinder trigger signal. On Autometer Tach the white signal wire is a

4-cylinder trigger signal and you may need to clip two colored looped wires at

the rear of tach for proper RPM reading.

4. There is a 14 gauge ignition power wire that connects to ignition side of

disconnects or relay, NOTE* do not connect wire to the alternator terminal engine

will not shut off.

Optional electric fan relay - small green wire in the 4-wire harness,

this is the signal wire for the electric cooling fan. It grounds the system

to operate the fan. Main power needs to be turned on for this to operate.

You can toggle the wire to ground for manual operation or you can

permanently ground the green wire to run the fan at all times.

Start Up Guidelines:

· Oxygen sensors are not required.

· Fuel pressure should be between 52-53 lbs at idle and 58-60 psi with

vacuum line disconnected from the vacuum regulator or wide open throttle.

· Check-engine light should be on (amber color) when ignition is turned

on and should be off when the engine is running.

· Spark plug wires should be inspected after each race and replaced

several times during a race season.

TROUBLESHOOTING ENGINE PROBLEMS

IMPORTANT - There is only one battery power required to start

up the engine supply direct battery power to red disconnect

ignition switch on terminal #1 this is a 3/8 stud - recommend

10 gauge or larger wire. The disconnect switch can also be used

as a car disconnect also.

IMPORTANT - Check engine light should be on when

ignition is on. If not, check the following:

1. Burned out check engine light bulb.

2. Ground wires on the back of the right side cylinder head must be tight.

3. Battery voltage on both sides of ignition switch.

4. The Tech 2 should show an ignition voltage of at least 12 volts.

5. Both PCM harness connectors are tight and in good condition.

6. Check if any malfunction codes are set in the PCM.

Engine will not crank.

Check for battery voltage (12 volts minimum) at the

following locations:

1. Master switch

2. Starter switch

3. Starter terminal

4. Make sure the ground wires on the back of the right side cylinder head

are tight and in good condition.

Engine cranks but will not start.

1. No fuel pressure. Check the following:

1. Make sure red wire out of harness marked fuel pump is connected

to the positive side of the fuel pump and ground to frame or engine.

2. Make sure low oil pressure switch located at top rear center

of engine underneath intake manifold has two green wires connected

to it this is a low oil pressure shut down. The fuel pump will not

run without oil pressure.

3. There may be air in the fuel line or fuel rail, which will require

a minute to purge. Continue to crank the engine or open the fuel

line at the fuel rail and check for fuel flow.

4. Insure fuel filter is not plugged.

5. The fuel pump relay will not stay energized unless the engine

is running. To test the fuel pump, the relay can be bypassed as follows.

Remove the connector from the fuel pump relay. Connect a jumper wire

from the orange to the red wire. This will power the fuel pump.

6. Check for battery voltage at the fuel pump at the fuel cell.

7. Check all lines for tightness and condition.

8. Insure that the fuel pressure regulator is installed properly and

that both o-rings are in good condition.

2. Check for spark at the spark plug.

3. Check injectors for a signal.

1. Remove an injector connector and put a 12-volt test light across

the connector.

2. Crank the engine. The light should blink.

Engine starts but runs rough

1. Most likely problem is bad plug wires.

2. If check engine light is on, check the malfunction codes with a Tech 2.

3. Fuel pressure must be at least 53 psi.

4. Bad Sensor. Note that some sensor problems will not necessarily turn

on the check engine light.

MAF - Engine idles but won’t take the throttle. Disconnect the MAF

sensor connector and blip the throttle. If the engine responds better,

leave the connector off. It is OK to race the engine this way

(on a backup fuel program) although the performance might not

be as crisp.

Throttle Position - Engine won’t take the throttle and runs

erratically. Shut off engine and turn on the ignition. While moving

the throttle from closed to WOT, watch Throttle Position on the Tech

2. It should go linearly from 0% to 100%.

Crank Sensor - If the sensor is not working or the connector is

faulty, the PCM will not detect any engine RPM and will not fire

the injectors or ignition coils.

TYPICAL READINGS ON THE TECH 2 AT IDLE

Use Vin #2G1FP2ZG8X manual transmission without air

Engine Speed 1200 RPM

ECT (Engine Coolant Temp) 180°F

IAT (Intake Air Temp) 80°-100°F

Baro (Barometer) 90-100 kpa

MAP (Manifold Air Pressure) 55 kpa

MAF (Mass Air Flow) 12-14 g/s

IAC Position (Idle Air Control) 150-160 counts

TP Sensor (Throttle Position) 0%

Injector PWM - bank 1 2.6

Injector PWM - bank 2 2.6

CMP Sensor - Low to High Should be counting up

CMP Sensor - High to Low Should be counting up

Spark 15-23° (changing rapidly)

Knock Retard 0°

Vehicle Speed Sensor 0 mph

Ignition Signal 13-14 Volts

ELECTRIC FUEL PUMP MOUNTING & FUEL LINE INSTRUCTIONS:

The electric fuel pump is a high pressure Bosch Motorsports Pump.

We recommend locating the fuel pump within 3' of the fuel cell. Mount the

pump no higher than 1/3 up from the lowest point of the tank.

The sealed engine also requires the use of a return line from the fuel injector

rail. There are 2 fitting located on the left side of the intake manifold. The

top #6 line is the pressure from the fuel pump. Operating pressure is

recommended from 58-62lbs WOT depending on your fuel being used.

The lower #4 push on line requires the use of a hose clamp to secure it to the

fuel rail. This is not a high-pressure line and we recommend returning it to the

top of the fuel cell.

First design fuel line & regulator system:

Second design Bosch regulator system:

At the end of 2005 season we changed the fuel regulator system on the 425hp, 450hp & 525hp packages. If your engine fuel rail only has one #6 connector this is second design. In an effort to get the regulator out of the engine bay it is now located at the rear of the car by the fuel cell. Install the regulator between fuel filter & fuel pump, #6 lines does not matter which direction it flows, 1/4" nipple at the bottom of the regulator, opposite diaphragm, returns directly to fuel tank.

We recommend a fuel filter on the intake side of the pump and a high-pressure

filter on the outlet of the pump.

The intake side of the pump requires a #8 fuel line and the outlet side of

the pump requires a #6 fuel line.

There are 2 terminals on the electric fuel pump the smaller of the 2 is the

positive terminal. This gets connected directly to the fuel pump wire lead

coming from the main wiring harness. The larger terminal goes directly to

chassis ground.

RADIATOR AND SURGE TANK MOUNTING INSTRUCTIONS:

Important the sealed engine assembly requires the use of a surge tank.

The sealed engine assembly is equipped with a #16 top water pump outlet,

this goes directly to the top of your radiator.

Underneath the throttle body is a #4 line. This line connects directly to the

top of your surge tank. This line vents the engine coolant at all times.

We also recommend a vent line from the radiator to the top of your surge tank,

this also vents the top of the radiator.

The lower radiator hose connects to the lower right corner of the water

pump at the thermostat housing. Located behind the thermostat housing

are 2 fittings, the 1st 3/4" hose fitting hooks directly to the bottom of your

surge tank. The 3/8" NPT fitting located at the rear of the water pump

housing is your temperature sending pickup.

Remember to use a 28lb-32lb pressure cap on your surge tank

ELECTRIC COOLING FAN MOUNTING INSTRUCTIONS:

The sealed engine assembly can be used with or without an electric cooling fan.

Specify at ordering time what your plan is for engine cooling.

REMOTE OIL FILTER INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS:

6.5 Qt. capacities with 18” of remote oil lines oil level may vary depending on location of remote oil filter. Proper level with the engine cold and with the oil filter full of oil, dipstick on left side of pan will just touch

oil level. Painting of dipstick with white paint is recommended to properly check oil level.

We recommend 10w30 oils only. The sealed engine can be used with or without external

oil cooler.

On the lower left side of the engine oil pan are 2 #10 fittings: the front

fitting is oil pressure out it needs to be connected to the inlet of your

remote oil filter assembly. The return line pressure out of remote oil filter

needs to be connected to the rear fitting of the oil pan,

this is pressure into engine.

Wet Oil Pan With Remote Filter

Dry Sump Oil Pan With Remote Filter

Silver Cap Is #12 Suction From Bottom Of Oil Tank

Red Caps Refer To Wet Pan Photo For Proper Installation